Travel / Back to Europe the slow way · 2022–2023

Rolling into Budapest after an overnight train from Munich felt like stepping into a new chapter. The train’s gentle jolt woke us as dawn broke over the city, and we stumbled off, bleary-eyed but excited. Our Airbnb was a gem—a cozy spot with a view of Pest’s rooftops—and after dropping our bags, we set out to explore, grocery list in hand. The nearest store greeted us with a hiccup: the credit card machine was broken. A quick scramble to an ATM solved it, and we later learned this cash-only snag is a local quirk called a “Hungarikum”—a charmingly frustrating slice of Hungarian life.
Our walk back was a delight. The streets buzzed with bronze statues—little figures mid-stride or at play—adding whimsy to the cobblestone paths. Storefronts popped with color, their displays of pastries and trinkets drawing us in. Then, by pure luck, we stumbled into an Easter market near Vörösmarty Square. The air was thick with the scent of chimney cakes spinning on spits and hearty stews simmering in pots. Stalls overflowed with painted eggs, handmade crafts, and woven baskets, while vendors smiled and offered samples. We couldn’t resist a warm lángos topped with cheese and sour cream—deliciously messy and worth every bite.


Next, we crossed to Buda and tackled the castle hill, joining a tour of the labyrinth beneath. Years ago, we’d chickened out of the pitch-black section, but this time, armed with just a candle, we plunged in. The cold, damp tunnels echoed with whispers of history—medieval secrets and wartime hideouts—and the darkness was thrilling, not terrifying. We loved it so much we went back for a second go, laughing as we navigated the twists again.
Later, by the Danube, we paused at the Shoes on the Danube Bank, those haunting bronze shoes commemorating Holocaust victims, a sobering contrast to the day’s joy. Nearby, a floating bus bobbed on the river, adding a playful note to a otherwise somber memory. Hungry, we sought out Gettó Gulyás, where a steaming bowl of goulash—rich with paprika and tender beef—warmed us up. We learned the hard way that reservations are a must, but the lunch special was a steal, a fantastic spread we vowed to catch next time.
Budapest unfolded like a treasure map, from market finds to underground thrills and riverside reflections. It’s a city that keeps giving, and we’re already dreaming of our return.

What’s your favorite Budapest memory? Share in the comments—I’d love to hear!
